It had been a longstanding plan to join
Ross (aka the Unknown Rider) and some of his chums on a bikepacking trip
into the Barrington tops, a high plateau draped in rainforest inland from
Newcastle, New South Wales. While riding induced back spasms ruled out Ross in
the week leading up to the start of this particular ride, the show went on, led
by bearded Barrington campaigner Brad (B-rad) with locals Jason, Gaz and newbie
Chris.
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Brad points out an epic trail in the distance |
Dashing away from work with my bike and
kit, I hopped aboard the express train to Newcastle. While limited space meant
I couldn’t take a book, entertainment came from a fellow passenger providing a
crack impersonation of Trent from Punchy. His Australianisims and cussing on
all manner of topics from Fords to boat people kept the carriage lively.
Waiting at the train station was Ross, who
had kindly offered to give me a ride to Brad’s house. From there we loaded up
the Volkswagon of doom and headed for Scone, grabbing some sleep and our last
night in a proper bed before we were to embrace the bush.
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Our Scone digs |
Newbie Chris proved to hold on to the
vestiges of civilisation for much longer than the rest of us, grabbing a
morning shower while the rest of us didn’t bother, knowing our skin was to
become crusted with the hard earned filth that only a solid bikepack can bring.
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Ollie working on his filth crust |
For this ride I’d opted for a Freeload rack
with a reprise of the solar charging system which I’d unceremoniously dropped
after the disastrous showing of my prototype integrated rack in the Great
Southern Brevet (link). While the early morning mist out of Scone produced more
dew than volts, by the time the clouds had cleared and we’d made the pub for
second brunch the battery was charging happily.
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Solar panels at suboptimal efficiency |
The road to Moonan Flat had been of the coarsely
chipped variety which makes for easy going on treadlies, but as we rounded the
corner and headed to the base of the hill we hit the sweet smooth
dirt that willed our bicycles up the climb.
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Jason heads skyward |
And what a climb it was. Topping out at
1500m, the 20km climb packed a solid 1200 vertical metre punch which got me
pretty stoked. This particular fondness for long climbs is one of the more
difficult things to explain (especially to non bikers) but a big climb like
this (reminiscent of the ones in the Tour Divide) really is a fantastic
experience. Twisting and turning up the mountainside while view become more and
more expansive by the minute. The higher you go the cooler the breeze until finally you top out with satisfaction and
a bit of huff and a puff at the crest of the climb.
Up till the point I’d conquered the
Barrington plateau climb I was convinced that Australia held none of the long
ascending delights which are prolific in New Zealand, but this climb certainly
set the record straight.
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View from the top |
The landmark at the end of this particular
monster was an amusing Dingo fence, presumably to keep the pesky baby stealing
critters from the national park on the other side. As one witty graffiti artist
pointed out, the fence didn’t present a particularly strong deterrent.
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Dingos welcome |
Now atop the Barrington Plateau, the grades
mellowed and just before dusk a claggy mist descended, the atmospheric
conditions mirroring the muddy double track which took us across the plateau to
within a stones throw of our destination for the night, Selby Alley hut. By the
time it had got properly dark I’d learned how to make the most of the slippery
track, keeping rolling speed up and using my dynamo light to illuminate the
small patch of jungle in my immediate periphery.
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Mist descends |
Turning off down the corker, we switched
from a riding focus to searching for our accommodation, an illusive structure
built in 1955 which promised shelter from the drizzle, a glowing fire and water
for our dehydrated space food. A brief
but exciting encounter with a trail traversing wombat proved a small distraction,
but by the time we’d passed the waypoint and had seen no sign of a trail to the
hut, we decided to cut our losses and pitch our tents on one of the rare
trailside flat spots.
Poor Jason had neglected to bring a
mattress (though no fault of his own) and despite my assurances, the lumpy
tussocks didn’t prove that ergonomic. He was kept awake by the groaning of what
we at first thought was a sasquatch, but later proved to be a windfall tree
hung up perilously close to our impromptu campsite. I’m not certain that paper
thin cuben fibre would have offered much protection from this falling hulk!
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Tree of doom |
B-rad and the others soon turned up and we
shared stories of the days before grabbing an awesome nights sleep (except Jason), lulled into sasquatch
filled dreams by the groaning of the forest.
Morning cast a completely different light
on the situation, and on riding back up the Corker we spied the well disguised
trail which had alluded us at night. Slithering down the trail and stepping
carefully across the log bridge we found the hut, and a family of some 13
hyperactive kids who had spent the night up there.
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Selby Alley Hut |
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How's the serenity? |
Saying our hellos, goodbyes, and restocking
with water we kicked off for Wombat Flats, then the Link trail; an exceptional
piece of trail which really made the ride. It was wet and stacked with poorly
assembled babies’ head boulders which scattered and tumbled as tires grappled
for traction. Like a long climb, a technical one gets me stoked, and the fact
that any ups were rewarded with giggle inducing slippery downs made this trail
the real deal. It was akin to the technical parts of Canterbury’s Wharfedale,
complete with the odd fallen tree and wheel swallowing bog which Rohloff and
drive belt munched through without protest. The sheer amount of sticks and
vines which littered the track would pose a threat for dangly do dads on a
derailleur, but with nothing to snag I could charge through the maelstrom with
relative ease.
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Jason shreds the link |
Lunch and another quaint hut and we pointed
downhill, taking in an eye watering 20km drop from Gloucester tops to flats,
spinning out, tucking and finding the limits of traction on the rain slicked
dirt road. Only the odd uphill car quashed the buzz, with fear of becoming a
hood ornament keeping us from going proper fast.
Elation of the climb over, we rolled
through the delightful farmlets and lumpy foothills to Gloucester, in time for
a beer, dinner and a lift back to the train station.
B-rad played the role of ride instigator exceptionally
well, and the post ride mood at the pub was buoyant, with a particularly stoked
Chris vowing to throw his helmet into the bikepacking game. Personally, after
my small taster of the terrain on offer in Newcastle I’ll be back with bells on.
Perhaps most exciting is the Big Hurt, which links some of the best trails (ala
Link track) with epic climbs for 750 km
of totally awesome adventure. All going
to plan I’ll be ling up for this monster in late August, safe in the knowledge
of the awesomeness in store!